Skinboat Cockpit Coaming

Skinboat Cockpit Coaming Having just completed a coaming and wrestled with the details I thought it nice to share the process as I muddled through it.

I use 7' lengths of oak ripped to 1/8" by 1 1/4" and 1/8" by 1/2" which has sat in my soak trough for at least a couple of weeks (a month is perfect)

First: Cut out a cockpit hole shape from some cheap ply. I like this to be at least an inch thick. At a few spots cut notches out of the edge of the form to allow the wood to be clamped.

Second: Load the steam box (or in my case kettle and dryer vent tube) with 3 or 4 pieces of each cut. Make a pot of coffee or tea, whichever you fancy.

Third: Find the waterproof wood glue and 1" ring shank nails...

Fourth: Pull the first hot bit of oak from the box. Curse the fact that you forgot to put gloves on again and then proceed to clamp one end to the form and wrap the other end around until they overlap. clamp this in place while you grab the glue. Slather a bit on the overlap and re-clamp.

Fifth: Slather the now clamped piece with glue. Take special care to get a sufficient quantity on your hands which will act as gloves for the next step.

6th: Pull a piece of oak out, apply glue to its soon to be entombed side and then but it to the previous piece, clamp it, wrap around and clamp again.

7th: (Enter the ratchet strap stage left) wrap the current assemblage with a ratchet strap, you'll know if you have it on the right direction when you begin to tighten. When you are certain it is on in the wrong direction correct this and tighten again. Now that you are proudly viewing your growing coaming, remove the strap once more and slide it so that the hole in the strap lines up with about 4 inches shy of the tag end. You will do this so that you can either peg or nail it and thus hold the tension in place.

8th: Peg or nail to hold the tension in place.

9th: Repeat until the 1 1/4" has grown to 2 layers all the way around. Cut to length, preferably on a flatish portion and peg or nail as you see fit.

10th: At the upper edge, or middle as your preference dictates, slather glue and begin wrapping the 1/2" in the same manner. Consider putting a nail or peg a few inches from the start point.

11th: Add 1/2" strips until a thickness of 1/2" to 5/8" inch is reached, either will work fine.

12th: When all the strips have been placed and pegged or nailed consider nailing the entire circumference of the lip at intervals of about 2 finger widths. I do this by first nailing at opposite points across the coaming to even out any slack wood. Ring shank nails have an amazing effect on tightening up your lamination.

13th: If it looks a bit wide or not wide enough simply use a metal blade on your jigsaw to cut the coaming free from the plywood and then apply pipe clamps to correct the shape. Consider an inch of over-correction when clamping as the wood will likely have some memory from the bending.

14th: Clamp it up and set it somewhere to dry for a day.

Forming and finishing:

1st: A day has passed and you can now remove all the clamps and view your mess or coaming in process. Dig out a rasp and plane and a file for the nails and get to work truing up the edges and adding some slope to the back and sides to soften the feel during your rolling sessions.

2nd: Fill any gaps with a mixture of sawdust and waterproof wood glue. Set the coaming aside for a day.

3rd: Sand until she's pretty.

4th: Drill 1/8" or so holes at 2 finger intervals just below the coaming lip.

5th: Apply a coat of varnish or oil to combing and set aside to dry.

6th: Sew it onto your skin taking care to fold the excess skin over so that it is hidden underneath the coaming.

7th: Varnish a couple more coats and your done.

Brew another pot of coffee, place it in a suitable thermos and go paddling!


(Originally Posted at http://www.kayakforum.com/cgi-bin/Building/index.cgi/page/1/md/read/id/220701/sbj/skin-on-frame-one-piece-coaming/)